It was also very difficult and time-consuming getting the strut well cover back on. If oil is not supplied with the cartridge, add the specified amount of hydraulic jack oil. I took the directive to remove the oil from the strut housing at face value, and did so. If you are looking to do some international online shopping, be sure to visit. Aside from our incredible deals, we also offer different payment choices that are safe and secure, round-the-clock customer support, and quick shipping. It was a bit askew.
It was very hard getting my strut tool down in there, nubs in holes, with the cover actually threading straight. Got out my handy-dandy strut tool to install the threaded metal strut hold-down thing. I guess I can get one at a dealer, but is there anywhere else I can get this thing for a reasonable price? I wondered how on earth I was going to get the new one in there, together with those rubber bushings. There was a lot more oil in this shaft, and I soaked three shop rags swabbing it out. Replace all components in reverse order of disassembly. Swabbed out all of the oil, released the locked shaft on the new strut, and put the new strut down into the well. Anyone know where I can get that special socket for the hex nut? The original strut cartridges use fluid in the strut housing.
I do not have a suction device, so I swabbed the oil out. Do i need to get strut mounts? After about twenty more minutes of wrestling, it was back down in there and the tower cover reinstalled. Had it specified it, I would add it. It took a fair amount of pulling and horsing to get the old strut cartridge out of there. Here are how my written resources broke down on this issue.
Now its 10pm and my car is taken apart. Using the new cartridge as a dipstick, check the fluid level. There was about twice that in the drivers side. On this Buick Regal the front strut cartridges are easy to change if you have the proper tools. I am having problems finding this tool and need to buy one since I have to bring it overseas with me. Also, I read somewhere in researching all of this though I admit I don't remember where at the moment that the presence of oil in the strut housing upon removal of the old struts was indicative of the old struts leaking oil. The repair instructions for my car in the Haynes Guide, alldatadiy.
There is a segment which covers the matter of oil. Thank you again for your input. No mention whatsoever about adding oil. I guess I can get one at a dealer, but is there anywhere else I can get this thing for a reasonable price? Also, the lower housing must be completely cleaned out of contaminants or old oil before adding any new oil. It is probably residual oil that was put there for a purpose. Once you place an order, you or someone you know can pick it up at a Sears store, have it shipped to over 100 countries—whatever is most convenient for you.
Maybe an eigth of an inch pooled in the bottom. So in effect, this component doesn't just save you time, it also saves you money on replacement parts. Find the best removal tool for your shocks right here at Auto Parts Warehouse today! The new strut cartridges are self contained but leave most of the oil in there to help cool the new strut cartridges. There was a pool of oil in the bottom of the strut container. You drop the cartridge in, and install the nut on top. It would not have been the first time.
The shaft would go up and down with very little resistance. Anyone know where I can get that special socket for the hex nut? This tool usually includes a spanner wrench and a T-50 torx bit for flexibility. Remove the strut piston rod nut Item 2. Strut mounts for the rear are almost a must as they are usually frozen the the strut piston. Plus having oil there does not necessarily indicate the cartridge was leaking either and to believe so is misplaced. I need the car for the morning.
If I am wrong, I am glad to be corrected, but right now, in terms of the sources I consulted, I don't see where I went wrong in the decision to not replace the oil. Inserted the two bushings, and installed new shaft bolt with the wrench and torx bit. The purpose is for better heat transfer or heat dissipation due to the design being a replaceable cartridge. Whether you use it is up to you. Right, but you said you removed the oil from the strut housing, so you need to put back enough to surround the cartridge. The rear are full struts and can be tough to replace beacuse of the transverse spring and the issue of retaining and reinstalling the auxiliary spring.
After about 40 minutes it was in. To my admittedly untrained eye, it woulld seem that the preponderance of the evidence points toward the apparent need for an oil-free strut body or this particular model car. Last input from me, look at step 9 notes in the autozone text for your car. Level is correct when it covers the bottom half of the cartridge. See link below which covers general information on semi and full Macpherson struts. When this happens, you need to get your hands on a strut cartridge tool, a device that allows you to easily remove and install the new strut.
Remove the strut mount bushing Item 3 by prying with a suitable tool. There was no such instruction or oil included in the strut packaging. Info helps me out : so i need to get the front cartridges, no need for the tool, the dealership has it. Remove the strut cartridge and replace with a new unit. Tue, 17 Mar 2009 00:00:00 -0700 On top of cash-back incentives and employee-pricing programs, Jeep is implementing another value play to lift sales with the introduction of Rocky Mountain Edition versions of the Patriot, the Liberty and the Grand Cherokee. Locate a small link connected to the rear axle trailing arm.