. Took a 60 mile round trip, left the engine running when I stopped by a couple stores and a friends house for maybe fifteen minutes each with the doors locked. Actually the entire undercarriage had mud on it like a bulldozer - the truck was pressure washed and the cross member was twisted a bit -most likely done at a construction site - i am at new house building sites all the time. I've had my brakes serviced numerous times and it continues to pull to the left when I'm braking. I was able to get it pushed out with the help of some friends and the drive still worked. Transmission problems only worsen with time. I went right back home and got another vehicle to drive to work.
Harsh shifting if it did. About a week later problem started up again. No movement in any gear: pump failure, or total loss of fluid. It's an automatic by the way. Worked great without doing anything about 10 more minutes into driving it the problem started happening again. My dream is now a nightmare. There were changes made to that transmission in 1994 so the answer would be no.
Ray Hello all - First time poster. By troubleshooting the transmission yourself, you may find that the problem can be fixed by yourself and could save you a lot of money in mechanics fees. If you are unable to diagnose the problem, you will need to have it looked at by a certified automotive repair technician. My question is could this be caused by a clogged transmission cooling sysytem if so could this be fixed by using Lucas tranmission fix. Set and idled like it was new, ran great though the speedometer didn't work at all, and I later discovered that neither did the rear lights.
Try not to run or drive the car or further damage could result. I did contact Chevrolet assistance in writing. In the last two weeks it has happened about 3 times. The own … ers manual says 3. Loud bang, grinding sound, loss of all gears, and a binding driveshaft: Snapped output shaft. Found the problem when I removed all 5 connectors to the computer, under the hood on the drivers side, and put them back on. Like any old vehicle replacing the breaks and roters is common.
I was at the bank today and when I put it in reverse to back out, the car jolted and then it rolled forward slightly while at the same time sounding like there was grinding. Worst case: poor line pressure rise see below. Automatic Transmission problem 13 The numbers failure and fatalities and anything that has a series of 9 is only in the boxes so that the form would advance to the next step. The sensor in the old housing bottomed out at hand tight. Intake gasket, engine coolant sensor, 4wd acutuator, wiper motor, fuel pump; these are all highly likely to go bad. In the past the dealer said it was because there is no weight in the bed of the truck.
Even after these repairs I still love the freakin car. I have a 97 Z71 with trans problems. I may be paranoid but I think I felt a little jolting going on when accelerating but I'm still determining if it's me or the truck. The Speedometer and tach stopped working, and the auto trans wouldn't shift out of 2nd. It is located on the front axle next to the differential.
Transmission must be removed and rebuilt. On wet pavement the transmission catches and spins the rear wheeels causing the vehicle to go side ways. Stab case ensuring the gasket is still in place 6. Of course any used vehicle is kind of like playing Russian roulette, any new vehichle I've had is that way too though. This list is merely a guide to the possible solutions.
It is drivable until it breaks. Sudden grinding noise with no prior warning primarily in 2nd gear, behavior in reverse may be abnormal: sunshell is fractured. . Pretty much all the things mechanics or auto part stores tell you to do after so many miles are the things you need to do. Go to an auto parts store and buy either a Haynes manual, or a Chiltons manual for the Yukon. It clanks loudly when shifting gears, doesn't idle correctly, and shuts off. My odometer is also frozen at the same mileage.