This article applies to the Chevrolet Silverado 1500 2014-present. The owner's manual recommends every 50k miles for severe service on the transmission no mention of rear end , and my Haynes manual states every 30k miles for severe service for either one. I recommend watching for any leaks, and checking the fluid level a few days after this procedure, to ensure the gasket seated properly. On my Camaro I changed the cover on the Moser 12 bolt axle just because I wanted a drain plug. I will admit I slid under it to look and have not had it up high enough to remove the skid plate. From the service manual - 2012 Selectable Front Drive Axle 8. At first couldn't find it, but it was recessed into the forward bottom of the diff more towards the input shaft.
Not quite sure what is different about it though. If you can't get the fill plug out, then you don't want to proceed with draining the fluid; otherwise, you're stuck until you do get it out. I'm pretty sure that you pop off the cover to drain Leave a couple of bolts on loosely when you pop the cover , you will want to clean off the inside of the cover anyway and the magnet. It should have been changed at the first 5000 miles after the break in heat cycles. Like the drain plug, this only needs to be hand-tightened. By - June 3, 2015 This article applies to the Chevrolet Silverado 1500 2007-2013. I didn't do the 5k, but wan't going to go 100k.
I think I see where to empty it, but not sure and I'm very lost on where to fill it. The transfer case was easy also, but I have my Camaro up on stands and don't have room for the truck. Add only enough fluid to reach the proper level. The three videos will show how to change the front differential, transfer case, and rear differential fluids. From there on, I follow a normal interval.
Modified means anything not stock like raised suspension, over size tires, performance tunes etc except air filtration. Never had a problem before. As for that article, i read through most of it but didn't really come to a conclusion. I'd just wanna know so I wouldn't have to get up and down once or thrice. The pump shown here is actually designed for a boat's lower unit, but works just fine. I also have my moms car on it. I would have at least two bottles.
To do this, I tightened the bolts lightly by hand, and then used my socket wrench to tighten them using a star pattern, similar to mounting a tire. I just couldn't look around enough to be sure. I don't like the search on this site at all. So Synthetic won't hurt anything in the front, just pricier? It may be best to use a torque wrench, but I applied about as much torque as it took to loosen them. Could be as simple as the position of the asymmetrical center section. Once it's dry, you can re-install it using the 18mm socket.
If you have a torque wrench you can torque it to 15 ft-lbs. So Synthetic won't hurt anything in the front, just pricier? Does anyone think 30K miles is a little fast for my rear diff fluid to be dark and dirty looking? I've never done a fluid switch this quick 37k on any truck I've owned. I thought he meant on the front. I think it's a reasonable guess; just do not torque them so much that you crush the gasket. Many have said that the proper fill level is 0.
Be prepared as the fluid will rush out quickly. I had a client that had over 700k on his truck. Edited December 31, 2016 by elcamino I did mine. New fluid starting to come out of the fill hole. Here's how to change the transfer case oil.
I can't imagine no one has ever changed it. They weren't usin synthetic back then. There are no leaks on the axles, pinion or other areas. Depending on its position when it was last filled. The transfer case controls whether you are in four-wheel drive or in two-wheel drive, so it's important to make sure it's maintained properly. At some point, something will go wrong.
Yeah, it does seem stupid that the 1500's don't have a drain plug on rear diff. I have always used Mobil synthetic in all my axles, and on my H3's the axles get pushed to the limit and remained locked for quite some time. To get an accurate reading of the fluid fill you need to let the vehicle sit on a level surface for an hour or more so that the fluid can return to the pumpkin from the axles. Auto stores sell several types of these, as do many places online. Ring and pinion gears are one of the most abused parts on a vehicle not mentioning the bearings and clutches for your limited slip. Is this improper, I don't know, I've always filled gearboxes up until the fluid came running out of the fill plug. From what I've heard, a transmission's worst enemy is heat, so anything to help is a big bonus.